0th Hour

Submit. That’s the last thing on my list. I'm ready to Unplug.

It’s Friday afternoon and my second Sabbatical just started! Whoa. My first act is to unpin outlook from the task bar. I remove the card from my computer which allows me to access the corporate network and I seal it into an envelope marked ‘Emergencies Only’.

I’ve unplugged!

Some cold beers while we wait for a few more friends to join. Soon there are five of us ready to hit the road heading North on the Sea-to-Sky Highway to Lion’s Bay. It’s a short walk down the rail line and an easy scramble to the best cliff jumping in town. Most of us are changing jobs or finishing school or taking some form of extended break from work/responsibility – for many of us, this will be our last weekend together. We arrive at the cliffs and the tide is out – the jumps are even higher than normal. We hit’em with all guns blazing: dives, flips, rope swings, and Tom pulls out the new standing gainer from seven meters up. It’s the makings for a great 0th hour and a fabulous evening on the water with good friends.

One more jump – we head up to the 18 meter platform. I’m off first. Splash! I have my legs open the tiniest bit for the landing and I’m paying for it now. Tom and Kalle both jump clean. Dave is last – he’s a novice but a keener, and it’s his first time out at the cliffs. He goes for it and throws right into a rigid pencil. We watch and cringe as he slowly drifts forward while falling and lands about 10˚ off straight. His face smacks into the water hard and it’s obvious to all that it’s a bad jump. He’s under water for a few seconds too long and eventually surfaces face down unconscious. 

I’ll be light on details because I don’t know Dave well. We had two former lifeguards in attendance and they carried him in the cold water while others prepared to receive him on land. A terrifying scene here as we were very worried about paralysis. We dialed 911 but canceled the call when Dave regained consciousness in the water about two minutes later and 30 meters from the jump site. He climbed onto land himself. He was badly concussed and didn’t know where he was, or even the year – so we dialed for help once again. We worked with an amazing crew of volunteers from Lion’s Bay Fire Rescue and some professionals from the Coast Guard to eventually get him to hospital by boat. 

 

He was slow to regain his memory as we sat with him for just over an hour – but he stayed calm and handled it extremely well. Reports over the following days indicate he is 100% A-Okay again.

It’s a harsh reminder of human limits and a harsh day 0.

Man of Leisure

We are in one of Squamish's most popular climbing areas, but things feel strangely remote. Oddly tranquil. Jen and I are alone with our shoes still wet from a rain which drove away the usual crowd of climbers.  The distant Shannon Falls rumbles like our stomachs as the sun sets over Howe Sound. Beautiful dusk. The pebbled granite is dry to the touch. 

Three years climbing and I still get the same intense thrills. 

This climb is right at my level - a perfect challenge. It starts abruptly with a traverse off a shelf into immediate exposure. Then a wide step and sustained climbing up a dyke while balancing on mere crystals. When I reach the last bolt, it's a featureless wall until a hand-crack starts high above. When  reach the crack, I'm high over the bolt and sweating in the intense humidity. It is shallow and wildly flaring.  I try one, two, three pieces of protection - but nothings good. I'm dangling on bad hands with no feet and sweat streams our of me lubricating my grip. I'm terrified.

It's a dreadful feeling - the one when you realize that you are going to either fall, or that you have to go higher in order to protect yourself. Every meter you climb now means two more meters if you fall. I remember three years ago, we were clueless out there on a wall jamming bits of weirdly shaped medal into cracks. So many unknowns - every movement was hard back then. In those days, I would have just jumped - taken the fall here before things got out of control. But I'm stronger now, wiser. I can do it.

Be calm. Breath. And move. "Clip". The sound of safety. The carabiniere closes around a green camelot with all four lobes biting in a perfect constriction high up where the crack deepens. My fear evaporates instantly. My palms are suddenly dry. And I can't help but yell something joyful but inaudible down to Jen 45 meters below. My small scared adjustments are replaced with confident movement again. I crank through the last section. Sent it.

Jen

Today was what it is all about. I could not be more excited to let the keyboard fade away and have climbing become my world for more than just a weekend. 

Announcing Sabbatical the 2nd

I'm almost there. Two short weeks and I'll be starting another 3-month sabbatical. It has been almost three years since my last, so it's time to escape the busy trap again!

I have some plans - but mostly just anti-plans. I've ended my lease here in Vancouver. I'm moving into my van and heading to greener pastures. Because it's about time I checked if the grass really is any greener on the other side.


First step is to spend August climbing in Squamish and the Bugaboos. Pack the rack and jam the crack! Get out here and let's go climbing!