Sunshine Coast Climbing

Uwe and Anja and Felix and Anke all ditch their vans in Squamish and the five of us move into the Ambulance to share the cost of ferries as we head for eight days of climbing and kayaking on the Sunshine Coast.

First stop is Powell River. I’m pushing hard for us to attempt a 10-pitch route up Psyche Slab in the Eldred Valley. It’s rough country and you can’t drive on the logging roads between 4am to 8pm, so we take a day to familiarize ourselves with Powell River climbing at the Lakeside Crags where we did find a nice but dirty broken crack system (5.9).

My spoiled European sport climbing companions are unimpressed by Powell River’s dirty traditional-style front-country crags, so we head to try out “an aqua-dynamic belay” at The Dark Pools. We find excellent cliffs for jumping, a rope swing, and beautiful lush surroundings - this spot is a real jem!

But the best feature here is the free-water-soloing. We start on the 10 meter long 5.10 climb which traverses just 2-6 feet from the water. Nice!

Then we take a stab at the 200 foot long circuit which climbs at 5.11 starting right on the water and climbing up to 40’ above! Shut down!

Life is grand and spirits are high as we abandon plans for the expedition climb in the Eldred Valley. We are headed to the sunny crags at Comox on Vancouver Island. On the ferry from Powell River to Comox, an officer in uniform approaches us. “Are you the ones driving an ambulancish-type vehicle? It seems we have a bit of a situation…” We don’t know what to say. He asks us to please follow him to the bridge, and we do so nervously. We step past the authorized personnel only signs and onto the bridge where three uniformed officers greet us.

“Who wants to drive?” they ask.

I'm having a hard time keeping the ship straight (bearing 250), but when we spot orca whales off the port bow the first mate announces their presence to the other ferry passengers over the intercom. I’m shocked when I hear his words echoing across the ship, “we will see if we can get a bit closer.” Hard to port! I’m orca chasing in a 5,000 ton boat! We get within a few hundred meters but are careful to maintain distance from the animals. When we lose their path we do a full 360 degree turn just for fun.

Sick.