Q and A

I got some questions from my friend Leslie Rowe and thought I would host a Q and A.

1. Have you found it useful to travel with US dollars ? (assuming you do)

I originally carried USD because it made me more comfortable. All transactions with locals are in local currencies and bartering in USD to a sure way to pay more. USD are most useful on the resorts where pricse are fixed and you can sometimes earn you a favourable price - most notibly in places with artificially inflated local currencies (Malawi and Zimbabwe for me). I require USD for most border crossings as USD and Euro are the only accepted currencies. I no longer carry USD and don't miss it.

2. Have you found it fairly easy to access ATM machines with your bank card? (gather from one of blogs that VISA is the card of choice which I've read before)

ATMs are ubiquitous in all countries, all cities, and even some villages. Rwanda seems to be the only exception and this is well documented in most of my readings, so I would expect you can find them unless your reading explicitly indicates otherwise.

3. Do you find traveling with a tent and sleeping bag invaluable (despite the added weight)?

My tent is my house and I could not do without it for my style of travel. I have slept in a bed only a handful of times on my trip (maybe seven). I prefer my tent to the uncomfortable and sometimes questionably clean bedding in the lodings. It is also a good way to cut costs.

I love my tent - a Big Agnes Seedhouse SL2 as it weighs only 1.5 kg. This plus ultralight summer bag and mattress make the weight a non-issue for the clear benefits.

4. Have you heard any yays or nays about those overland camping tours of African countries?

A contentious issue.

There is a general attitude of contempt amongst most independent travelers I meet for the overlanders. Independent travelers seem to think themselves a superior breed to the overlander. For the most part, the overlanders seem very happy but mostly socialize amongst themselves.

From what I can tell, all the companies are pretty much the same and the quality of the trip depends mostly on your guide and the group in the bus - neither of which you can control. Having somebody else drive you everywhere and manage all your logics breeds a very different attitude to travel and most trucks sport a party atmosphere.

The trucks stop in a set of places which are equipped to cater to that many people. Personally, if there are two villages one with an overlander stop, I go to the one without. Having the overlanders stop in a town is transformative - quality of service is higher, but things are ubiquitously more expensive and locals are more prone to treat you like walking money. I hitched a ride with a Kumuka truck through Zambia and had a wonderful time though it would have driven me crazy to stay for more than a few days. I'm glad I tried it, but this style of travel is not for me as I prefer more independance and enjoy managing my own logistics; but there are many virtues. If your time is constrained, or you don't want to travel alone - overlanding is a good way to see a lot of Africa.

5. Sandals the best footwear? Other?

Sandals and boots are indispensable. Everything in the middle is a luxury. I often wish I had a pair of dress shoes for socializing and it is common for female travelers to carry a pair.

Thanks for the questions! Happy to answer any others.

Round 2

1. When you are camping are you staying in "campgrounds" or just finding a spot somewhere? Alas, we females always have to have our radar up for our safety from -well - you males (alas, twas ever thus) so as much as I look forward to tenting I wanted to get a sense of what sort of venue we're talking about.

Oh men, tell it girl.

When camping, I'm mostly in campgrounds - at least 90% of the time. Guide books are useful for finding them. The quality of campsites vary greatly. Sometimes campsite means "the small patch of grass in front of the bar," sometimes it is a patch of indoor concrete - but usually there is a garden or patch of kept grass for camping with shared fascilities (restaurant, toilet, shower). If the Lonely Planet says there's camping - they mean a designated good quality area.

I have camped in cities but I don't recommend it except to have the experience.  There are usually a lot of  harassment even though it is well intentioned - often people will literally camp beside you just to watch you in fascination. I am always nervous about theft with so many eyes on me, though nothing has ever been taken.

The camping women I've talked with report no additional troubles than most of the men. I have never met a person assaulted in their tent.

A more realistic threat is likely theft. I would wager that risk of theft from dorm rooms (where belongings are in a common area) is higher than from tents - but I'm guessing.
 
2. Are you finding that the majority of the long-term travellers are people (oops, I almost said "kids") in their 20's? Would this be the case most particularly on the overland tour groups?

All shapes and sizes. I've been really impressed with the diversity. Africa is an expensive place to travel and this seems to keep a lot of the 20 somethings out. If you meet a 20 something, it is more likely that they are a volunteer than a traveler. Overland groups are definitely all ages. Again - different companies cater to different crowds. The "long-term" travelers have mostly been in their 20s, 30s, and 40s (roughly even distribution) though I have met more than a few in their 70s.

Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda has had a lot more travelers and a higher concentration of young travelers than in the south. Certainly places like Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro are mostly young crowds.

3. Why do you think it a good idea to carry boots? Do you use them often? (they're awfully damn heavy when they're not on your feet so am trying to just go with Keans)

I use Keens.
I carry a big pack and like heel support when doing so.
Africa is dirty and muddy.

4. Do you think it a good idea to take mosquito net from here (they sell them impregnated with repellent goop here - ack - or are they everywhere there ?) 

They're everywhere - both for purchase and provided by your accomodator.
I carry a tent instead of a net. If nets are bad, I pitch the tent on the dorm bed.