Nice clear day. Conditions were perfect for aid climbing. But I forgot that I needed some additional gear [1] [2] so we stayed in Vancouver late to pick it up.
The pleasant hike to Grand Wall base included some atypical snow this time around. There were also large clusters of watermelon-sized ice chunks which periodically free-fall from the overhanging wall above. Helmets!
I started us out by leading Seasoned in the Sun. This picture is not of me, but I'd probably look just like that guy. Corine and I once found a magazine with a picture of a girl climbing this route; before we knew what we'd done, we both dropped our lives to chase after the girl in the picture. It is a beautiful and classic climb.
Aside: I was climbing with one of my regular partners, Dima. Dima speaks a handful of languages and I rarely know which one he's cursing in. Cursing is not infrequent, but things are truly bad only if Dima yells in English. For example, "Momma" is often used before any imminent large fall on bad protection. Foreign language cursing usual indicates hardgoing, frustrations, or close calls. My favourite curse is the Russian curse "blei" because it just sounds like he's shouting out "blah" with lots of enthusiasm. I have a goal to start using it more regularly.
Dima belayed me up to the next ledge and then he took over to take us up some snow-covered scrambles. Using a single tree for protection, perched above a precarious drop-off, Dima slipped slightly on snow. "Blei!" Russian. All was well.
We progressed another 2 pitches up a little scramble, and then traversed over a slick, cold, frozen waterfall. We have completed the approach, and now stand at the base of University Wall!Here starts the beginning of our battle: our winter ascent. Dima and I look upward at the climb: eight relentless overhanging pitches up the sheer cold rock. The weather is clear. We're geared for success. Conditions are perfect. One last climb stolen before the year's end.
But we've moved too slowly. It is the absolute shortest day of the year. We touch University Wall and rapel down to drink hot tea as the sun sets at 4pm.
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